Travel Journal: Galway, Ireland

This is long overdue, but it’s FULL of info, so I hope this Travel Tuesday post was worth the wait. Here’s the thing: I found Ireland to be hugely underrated. Learn from my mistake.

When I had a little bit of time between jobs, my sweet beau suggested I take a trip. I think he expected me to go to Boston or DC but – surprise! – I left the country. Why did I go to Ireland? TBH, it wasn’t really on my bucket list. I originally intended to use this as an opportunity to cross someplace off my list and take advantage of last minute deals. It was going to be a short trip (3 nights) because I didn’t come up with the idea until around the 28th of July and then I was starting the new job on Thursday the 8th of August…plus I had signed up for an in-studio Peloton on the evening of the 7th. I half-jokingly mentioned the idea to Rebekah who was randomly also able to slip away, so we booked our flights on Monday for just five short days later. I suggested Paris (flights were super cheap, I love France, and we’d actually be able to go to the Olympics) or someplace on my domestic list like Palm Springs. Rebekah countered with Ireland because it was on her bucket list and she believed it would be an easier journey with the time change. I’m here to tell you, she was absolutely correct. There was a terrible storm and we lost a full day, but two nights in an area like Galway didn’t feel rushed; and because you gain time coming back, I didn’t return home all exhausted.

Sunday, August 4, 2024

Originally, I planned to fly into Dublin on Saturday night, arriving Sunday morning when I would hit up a coffee shop, a bookstore and the Trinity College library before heading to Galway. When my flight was canceled, I switched to Shannon airport, flying late (overnight) Sunday night so I spent the evening with airport snacks, two movies, an in-flight meal, and an attempted nap. I changed clothes just before landing so I’d feel nice and fresh.

Monday, August 5, 2024

I arrived at about 6:30am local time. It was insanely easy (and only $17) to get a bus ticket (on a very nice coach) and hopped on right in front of the airport. An hour and 15 min later I pulled up to Galway where it was a very short walk to the hotel.

I dropped my stuff off in the room and we were off – after losing a day, we had to make the most of every minute. Next to our hotel was an Aran wool store. The Aran Islands are nearby and famous for their wool. This was a necessary souvenir…plus it was quite chilly so we bought matching sweaters and walked out of the store wearing them.

We crossed the river and got tea at The Secret Garden, an adorable little shop with cozy seats indoors and a quaint outdoor space.

The rest of the morning was spent strolling the university campus, river (the shortest in Europe), the cathedral (built in 1958, it’s actually one of the youngest in Europe), and outdoor craft market popup. It was just nice to leisurely walk, chatting with a close friend. And to have the sweet sounds of buskers – a very Galway thing – in the background while we did it.

We stopped for brunch at the highly recommended ArdBia, where I got a poached egg situation with toast, fresh spinach, and mushrooms.

Then it was all about shopping and seeing what Galway was all about. We went to the original makers of the Claddagh ring, which even had a teeny museum in back. I was hoping to get a little something, but the size I wanted wasn’t available. I have enough Irish friends who have used the claddagh as their wedding band to know this is a cool shop.

My favorite stop was probably Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop. What a fabulous store with soooo much wonderfulness gracing the many shelves. I got a couple books for Finn and then a few for me (a very old Nancy Drew and two contemporary books – Big Swiss and Lessons in Chemistry – because I love the different covers they have over there).

After going back to the hotel to get changed, it was back to the main drag. We started at Quay’s for a ton of oysters and brown bread (for a very reasonable price). I was shocked at how good it was for a pub scene. This is a 400 year institution and the decor gets more ornate the deeper you go.

Then it was across the street for fish and chips at McDonagh’s that were soooo good. Also huge. Splitting one order was plenty.

When in Ireland, whiskey is a must, and I specifically wanted to hit up some spots on the Whiskey Trail. We went to Freeney’s, which was pretty dead but felt more like a local hangout so we were into it. I explained to the bartender that I’m a bourbon gal and shared my preferences and he introduced me to some great Irish whiskeys that he accurately predicted I’d enjoy.

At midnight we were in bed with face masks.

Tuesday, August 6, 2024

Rebekah and I travel well together – we like seeing the same sights but give each other space when we need it. I woke up on Monday morning and jetted out early to grab a coffee while she took her time getting dressed. Little Lane was a cute and tiny spot that even had some art that I purchased (art is always my go-to souvenir). The piece I got (by Sketchico) is by a Galway-based couple who create photography-based digital paintings. I liked the mix of techniques and that it depicted very “Irish” scenes.

I grabbed a quick breakfast burrito back at the hotel (our room included breakfast and they had some great fresh options – the US could take a hint) while I waited for Rebekah to come downstairs.

Then it was off on a 5.5 hour tour of the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher. We had already sensed Ireland had some crazy weather, but this tour confirmed it. In a single day, we saw all 4 seasons and went from tank tops to sweatshirts and back again. It also rains all the time. In the Burren, our guide told us, they get 1,400 mm/year (that’s double what Dublin gets).

We drive the the Burren – a word people kept saying without actually explaining what it was. Turns out it’s one of six national parks in Ireland, but it’s massive and not like a park we think of in the US. It’s got over 70% of the wild flora in Ireland. We made stops along the way to gaze at a castle and the thatched roof cottages, which are so unique and represent a lost art (and make it tough to get insurance). Their red doors and windows are meant to ward off fairies.

We passed limestone mountains, which are very porous so there’s a series of underground caves/water. This is why there are so many wells. And we saw plenty of dry stone walls that are made without mortar- just stacked stone.

We don’t stop at Kinvarra, but I could tell it was a cutie town as we drove through, famous for their boat races and the largest thatchef roof building that’s now a hotel/bar.

We did stop at Hazel Mountain Chocolates. I kinda rolled my eyes at first, thinking it was a tourist trap, but it’s actually a delicious mom and pop operation with the CUTEST backstory. A man was giving walking tour and a woman visiting from Poland went on the tour, fell in love, and together they started a small-town chocolate factory in 2014. It was straight out of a Hallmark film. It was also delicious, perhaps because it’s the only chocolate in the world made with Irish dairy. I grabbed some hand painted truffles (salted honey, lavender earl grey – my fave- and coffee cardamom) and some bars for my parents.

We learned a few very interesting facts along the drive:

A hotel in county Clare closed because they opened themselves up to Ukrainian refugees who needed housing
Back in the day, the small towns we passed through would have been fishing villages, but people can’t make enough money doing that anymore so they survive pretty much solely on tourism
Fanore was a tiny town we passed where we we learned people like to surf even though it’s freezing simply because the water is so choppy that it’s a badge of honor – it’s why they call it the “wild Atlantic way.”
We learned more about the nearby Aran islands, where the first language is Irish and they’re famous for their wool. Every family had their own pattern (like sweater pattern); that way, if a fisherman fell overboard and died, they’d know who he was and how to notify the family based on the pattern of his sweater.
Matchmaking is a thing. We passed a matchmaking donkey farm (google it) and the town of Lisdoonvarna hosts a matchmaking festival in December. Incidentally, that town is now 53% Ukrainian because they took in so many refugees.

We stopped for lunch at a town called Doolin, where I ate a delicious cioppino and sampled the famous Doolin Red (which is similar to Guinness but perhaps better?!).

Finally, we made it to the Cliffs of Moher: the main attraction. This was probably the reason we came to Ireland in the first place. Rebekah had fallen in love from afar after recently watching the almost entirely AI generated Lindsay Lohan Netflix movie and we both live those moments in Harry Potter. Despite my offer to pay her to recreate the scene from the Princess Bride (“aaaaas youuuuu wiiiiiiish”), Rebekah kept her feet firmly on the ground as we walked along the cliffs. The views were breathtaking. So much so that we didn’t mind the on-and-off cold and rain.

Our tour overall was great – not too talky. We spent the bus ride back simply gazing out the windows. Everything in Ireland is so GREEN. It’s one of the few places I’ve been that looks exactly like the postcard. Santorini is gorgeous, for instance, but behind the frame there are a million tourists cramming to get the shot. Or the castles of France are stunning but up close you remember is blah dirt driveways that are always cut out of the photos since lush landscaping wasn’t a thing.

Once we got back to Galway, we changed for dinner and walked across the river to New Zealand restaurant Kai, which came highly recommended and was FULLY worth the hype. (The owners got a Michelin star at their previous restaurant.) We started with crab, kohlrabi, and roe as well as tempura scallops. For my entree I got lamb chops with salad and tahini yogurt and we shared a bread pudding with apricots and custard for dessert. Every plate was licked clean. The menu changes every other day so you might not eat what we did, but you’re in for a treat no matter what.

This final night was reserved for MUSIC. Trad music is a thing and it is still very much thriving. We had to see what Ed Sheeran was talking about. We started at The Crane Bar for some very traditional trad music (yes I realize I’m emphasizing trad). While grabbing a drink at the bar, I befriended an octogenarian who moments later took the stage and regaled us with some shanties. It was fabulous. Even on a Tuesday night (when school was out), it was hoppin. After Crane, we made a quick stop in Tigh Neachtain because we heard it’s loved by creatives. We could immediately tell it was a bit artsier and really liked all the nooks nestled throughout. We only left because we were specifically in a music mood and weren’t going to find it there, especially on a Tuesday night in the summer. Apparently Cillian Murphy is a fan. From there we went to The King’s Head, which played modern trad music, which seems like an oxymoron but it worked. Some folks even got up to do some actual Irish dancing. The building is super old (there’s a fireplace from the 1600’s) and the bar owes its name to the fact that the property once belonged to King Charles I’s executioner. There are also ties to the 14 Tribes of Galway – check above the fireplaces for marriage stones from the Martin, French, Bodkin and Lynch families.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a takeout spot called Xian Street Food because our tour guide told us that the “spice bag” is an Irish – and Galway – specialty. It’s fries, spices, chicken, and sauce all mixed together. Not what we Americans could ever find at a Chinese restaurant and though entirely inauthentic, was incredibly good. We ate it in the room before doing more fave masks and going to bed.

Wednesday, August 7, 2024

We didn’t have a ton of time before our flight out, and just like the previous morning I snuck out on my own for coffee to squeeze in as much of the town as possible. Coffeewerk and Press is a a coffee + art store with the cutest logo.

Rebekah and I strolled for a bit and scoped out the Red Earl ruins. This is the oldest excavated building within the city’s medieval walls from the 13th century. It was built by Richard de Burgo, the grandson of Walter de Burgo who founded Galway in 1232. Richard de Burgo was the third Earl of Ulster and the hall was once Galway’s primary municipal building, used as a town hall, courthouse, and tax office. We also popped into the mall that was built around the walls of a stone fortress.

We stopped for brunch at éan for another fabulous meal. (I got a tuna toast with oil that was great.) This place was ca-yute and had artwork on the walls that I found seriously tempting. NOTE: I just learned this restaurant has closed, which is a true shame because it was a gem.

And then it was back home! It was a whirlwind trip, but I wouldn’t change a moment of it.

Galway Details

Accommodations:
- House Hotel: This is where we stayed and it was perfect. Kind staff, good breakfast, and very centrally located.
- Corrib House: This meticulously restored Georgian townhouse was fully booked but worth seeing if you can get into.
- G Hotel: This space has been redone and looks to be good for events. I mention it because it consistently comes up since it’s newish and I’m sure it’s lovely, but I highly recommend staying near city center, preferably in the Latin Quarter because you’ll feel far away from everything over here and cabs aren’t a big thing.
Food & Drink:
- Seafood: It’s on the water so the seafood is plentiful and good. Whether it’s fried or raw, it’s a safe bet. The spots we are at were all great, but we also got recommendations for Oscar’s (more formal vibe).
- Bars: There was no way we could hit them all. Here are some that were recommended but didn’t make the cut:
  - Daróg Wine Bar
  - Tigh Nora (serves over 200 types of gin for your tonic)
  - Garavan’s (also on the Whiskey Trail and offers flights)
  - O’Connells (has a beer garden)
  - Tig Coilli (lots of recommendations for this one with music and a lively crowd)
  - The Dáil Bar (good for cocktails and dancing)
  - Taaffes
  - Roisin Dubh
- Whiskey: It’s Ireland; you drink whiskey. It’s just what you do. (If you’re into it, follow the Whiskey Trail.)
- Chinese Food: You’ve got to try a spice bag
- Local Coffee: As a music town typically packed with college kids, cute coffee shops abound. Take advantage.
- Doolin Red: This beer is local to the region and is a must-try.
Activities: There are lots of festivals in Galway, so if you can plan your visit around one of them, that’s always a plus. We missed one of the horse races by a day.
- Cliffs of Moher: The rock faces are massive, the views are stunning, and the puffins are adorable. It’s a great tourist destination.
- Aran Islands: With attractions dating back to the Bronze and Iron Ages (and of course that famous wool), this is a cool spot to check out in the region.
- Mall: I know a mall is silly and boring, but just step inside this one for a minute because it was built around a wall fortified against the Normans. It’s cool to see before you go and have a picnic on Eyre Square or along the river (preferably from Sheridan’s Cheesemongers)
- Trad Music: And music in general. This is pretty much Galway’s whole thing. It reminded me of being back in my own college town of Athens, GA.
Tips:
- Wool: Aran wool is sumptuous – bring some home. I got a sweater and a hat…as well as gloves and a scarf for my mother- and father-in-law.
- Layer up: The weather here is crazy. Hot cold wet dry…all within a two hour time frame. Prepare yourself.
- You don’t need a ton of time: Galway is an adorable town, but after two days I felt very satisfied in having “conquered” it. You don’t need to spend a week there and should definitely plan day trips.